I built a Titanium PC. It crushes everything.

During my time on YouTube making tech videos nearly for the last decade, of course, on a different channel than this one, I've built a lot of computers. Some easy, some cheap, some expensive, and some very difficult. And one that always comes to mind is the copper tubing build. I don't know why I thought it was going to be not that difficult, but man, trying to bend a metal pipe without destroying it, making it look horrible, etc., etc., was incredibly difficult. And since then, it's nestled a place in my brain as the most difficult PC build I could possibly do. That is until recently. I was, you know, browsing some crazy car exhausts as a a car enthusiast like myself might do, and I stumbled upon some sick looking ones made out of titanium, but titanium that was bent, which to me was something you couldn't very easily do. And it made me wonder, hh. So, after a quick trip to eBay and a very expensive credit card purchase that I'm sure my accountant is going to love, I am now the very proud owner of 6 m of T2 titanium tubing. That's right. Today, we're building me a brand new personal rig. One worthy of a tech YouTuber title. I say today, but this is probably going to take like weeks. Starting in the same place you should start any build with the motherboard. Why is there a CPU in there? cuz my good friend Splave sent this over to me as a care package with supposedly a bind chip. Unfortunately, this really awesome CPU is not going to end up in this PC. Out it comes only to be replaced by an even crazier CPU, AMD's 9950X3D. Now, owing balls that hurt. Owie. It's not just those 16 cores that make this chip so crazy. I mean, those are going to be fantastic for content creation, but it also has a metricload of level three cache, 128 megabytes to be exact, which makes a huge difference in games as well. So, this is kind of my ultimate CPU. Now, honestly, I'm kind of scared to talk about the next part. What I have in my very hands here is 96 GB of GSkill's Trident Z5 memory at 6,000 mega transfers per second, which might not seem that crazy except that it's CL28. Some of the lowest latency RAM that you can get at this speed and capacity. I don't even want to think about how much this RAM kit costs now. I got this RAM like 6 months ago when RAM pricing was at like all-time lows. Oh my god. I don't know. Whatever I called this video, this is now the outofouch PC. Holy [ __ ] We're just going to stick the RAM in the hole and pretend the entire world isn't falling apart behind us. Okay, now for storage. We can't have that slowing down the rest of this system. So, this is Sabin's Rocket 5, Gen 5 M.2 SSD. That's 4 terb of storage that can reach 14 gigabytes per second read right into the top slot here. Now, it's important to mention this ASRock X870E Taichi Light has not one, not two, not three, but four M.2 slots. This one is PCIe Gen 5, which is why I put our Gen 5 SSD there. Oh, what else is there to install? The water block. This is the Optimus Signature V3. The most beautiful water block I swear I have ever seen. Woo! Oh [ __ ] Now, Optimus doesn't just build the most beautiful car in the lot. They also make the most performant one. The fin pitch, that is the distance between all of the fins inside of this water block, is like in the neighborhood of twice as dense as some of the competitors. Multiple degrees cooler. And they even back it with a 10-year warranty, which is kind of unheard of in the water cooling industry. And the thing I like even more than all of that is that they use really highgrade nickel plating on the copper that the actual block is made of, and it helps to protect the block and keep it looking nice. And they're usually sold out because they don't even charge more than other brands. They even include a custom CNC machined tool to install the block with. They also make like the craziest, most flat blocks ever. There's our motherboard fully prepped. And now we get to put it in the case. The Haven HS420. A case from a company I had never heard of. And boy, am I ever glad I found this one because it looks woo. It literally has a bend in it, which is crazy. They were even clever enough to block out the bottom of the case and add vents on the side, the back, and the front, which double as handles to make sure that crazy people like me who run their computer on carpet, don't suffocate their components. Now, the power supply we're going to use wouldn't have been suffocating anyways because it vents to the back. CSIC sent their topofthe- line TX600 watt power supply. The reason I requested it was because I think you guys would lose your freaking minds if I didn't use an 80 plus titanium rated power supply in the titanium PC. It's an absolute monster and it is going in this computer right now. Ooh, it's magnetic. Man, this thing is so funky. I actually love these. I was just thinking this PC build's going so fast. I'm going to be done in a heartbeat. Boy, do you folks have no idea how much more difficult this is going to get. Oh, wow. Look how cool I look now. Okay, I got the cables pre-ran. Now we take off the glass. There we go. Now, I'm glossing over this stage of the assembly because this is the easy stuff. I'm test fitting the radiators and we're slapping in our GPU. When we get into tubing this computer and also designing and manufacturing a custom distribution plate for the front of the case, that's where the time on this build is going to go. As for the fans, I wanted the best of the best, and that is Noctua's NFA12x25 G1. There is a G2 that is in theory better, but it doesn't come in black, at least not yet. And if you're interested in it or any of the other parts we've used in this build, they'll all be linked down in the description. Man, this case is so thoughtfully designed. It's got a little cutout here so you can run the top fan cables through it. And then when you put the top bracket in, you don't even have to run the fans down and into the CPU area. No, they're all the way up here. And then you can bring them down over here. Or you can bring them down all the way over there. And you won't even see them. There's no chance of them hanging down cuz they're in like a separate compartment up top. Good job, Haven. You guys clearly put some thought into this thing. >> Good job. >> Which is exactly how I felt when I got the new A1, the world's first production 8K 360° drone from today's sponsor, Anti-gravity. Take off with caution. No GPS. That's funny because once you put on their micro OLED powered vision goggles, you're transported into a totally immersive flight experience. You can look around and see everything. Oh, look. There's the camera. Isn't that cool? Huh? A neck beard. Wow. And with their grip controller, flying is easy and intuitive. So easy that in the full video I did on the A1, we got to fly it off of a boat and explore beautiful downtown Vancouver. And all I could really say was, "Wow, look at the tree. It's as close as I'll ever get to flying. And the first time I ever flew a drone and actually wanted to take it out and fly it again, but if you want to practice first, they recently launched a new simulator mode that lets you practice flying virtually to learn the controls and mess around before you take flight for real. And once you do, you'll get up to 39 minutes of flight time on the high-capacity batteries. Don't fly this thing inside your house, please. That's tons of time to have a fantastic experience or to get the perfect shot or both. Because it's 360, you don't even have to frame it right the first time. It's truly awesome. And to make it even better, from now until February 9th, every A1 bundle is 15% off. So, what are you waiting for? Check out the Anti-Gravity A1 at jacku.com/antgravity or at the link down in the description. >> This thing is so cool. Now, unfortunately, our glorious RTX 5090 is not readily available. It's uh in this computer right here, which means Oh god, what the [ __ ] is that growing in there? Yucky. Unfortunately, I kind of needed a GPU for this machine, which is my temporary editing rig I've been using. And yeah, I got the card pre-blocked. And that means that this GPU is currently full of water. Everything is flawless. Why is it like under suction? How do I get this to drain then? Who tightened this? Hey, there we go. Now, that is a graphics card. Optimus actually designed this block for medical research. It is an absolute monster of a block. It's a full back plate that's like millimeters thick. I'm so roided out. I'm actually not. I don't go to the gym. I think this should match perfectly with a raw titanium tubing. Oh yeah, bro. Oh yeah. Oh god, my hands cramping already. >> 3,000 whoops later. Ah, this project at every stage so far has basically screwed me. I got the wrong fittings sent to me. I got a pack of fittings stolen from me. I got a piece of acrylic stolen from me. I got the vertical GPU bracket that we actually needed for the water cooling to look nice and clean. It got returned to sender because FedEx couldn't find my house even though they deliver packages to my house pretty much every week. Fortunately, I managed to find this Cooler Master vertical GPU bracket, and it even comes in white, but that version was out of stock. Once I get the GPU in there, I can finally get a 3D scan of this computer, and then we can move on to designing our DRO plate and then bending the tubes. Confidence. Woo! Yep. The only reason I'm making this is so that we have really accurate dimensions for where all the parts are so that when I go to make the distro plate, I know exactly where all of those fitting locations are going to be so that we can have really straight, nice tubes. Um, straight but bent. In just a matter of, I don't know, maybe 15 minutes of me messing about and cleaning it up a little bit and we have this. But I think what I'm going to do now is try to bend some titanium. and we're gonna try to do it with this 60 lb tubing bender I bought on V4. Here's how I mounted it. Here is a piece of our titanium tubing. I measured it. It is 16 mm outer diameter on the freaking dot. And I'm going to wreck one of them maybe. Now, when I was building my copper tubed PC, I learned a lot about bending tubes. And one of the things you're really meant to have when you're bending tubing and you want it to not collapse is a mandrel bender. I obviously don't have a $30,000 mandrel bender. So, instead, we're going to fill our tubes with sand. I'm going to try one without the sand just just to see what's the worst that could happen, right? I got a little bit of lube on my finger we're going to use to keep the pipe from getting super scored. It's like pussa lube. It's just what I had kicking around. But it doesn't really matter cuz it's just going to collapse anyways. I don't know how far I need to go because the start isn't straight. Okay, it already looks like it's collapsing a bit on the top. See how it looks kind of flat? I think I might also need to heat it up, too. I think that's probably part of the problem. Wow, it really does spring back a lot. Okay, can you imagine if this worked without any sand or heat and still looked good? There's no It [ __ ] worked. Yeah, I bent it too far. But that was no heat, no infill, nothing. This This part is tricky. You see that pretty noticeable gouge in the side? It's definitely because the way that this thing is set up, it just has this part right there to hold the tube. So, I think what I need to do is take that off, measure it, 3D print like a way longer version that has like I don't know, just like not one single point of holding and then that should solve that problem. But other than that, dude, I think we're golden. Easy. The DRO plate in theory is a simple part to design. It's just that in practice, it's never that easy. The case I picked is huge. and my CNC mill, a Make era Carvera is not. And since I didn't want my DRO plate to look like a lifted truck on stock tires, those two pieces quickly turned into four and eventually six when I realized I needed to have a bridge to connect the other four together. To further complicate matters, the flow direction of the two water blocks in the build so far were opposite of each other. So, if I wanted the GPU tubes to be parallel and not run the water through one of the blocks backwards, which is really bad for temps, I had to get a bit creative. Designing this crazy diagonal channel thing where the two water paths for the GPU can go past each other and switch directions so that the water was actually flowing the right direction inside the graphics card. If there was an easier way to do this, please holler down in the comments, but this was the best thing my brain could come up with, and it wasn't exactly the easiest thing for Mr. Jake with 3 or 4 hours of CNC experience in my entire life to try to machine. If you've 3D printed anything before, you'll probably be familiar with a slicer. It's the program that takes whatever model you've designed or downloaded and along with some preferences, takes that info and generates instructions for your 3D printer to print the object. It's super easy. CNC programming on the other hand, holy hell. If you don't have experience doing it already, it's one of those things that's just an absolute [ __ ] nightmare to try to figure out. And as grateful as I am for the knowledge I gained along the way. I mean, don't get me wrong, I never want to go through that again. Literally a week of my life, I was programming and machining this damn distro plate. if it [ __ ] leaks. Yeah, you can see in this footage I'm going pretty fast. But that's actually a good thing. When you're machining, if you go too slow, and by go, I mean how fast it's actually going across the material, which is called the feed rate, you risk rubbing the material rather than actually cutting pieces off, which creates a ton of heat. And in the case of acrylic, that can cause the acrylic to melt and stick to the bit, potentially causing the machine to stall and then breaking the bit, which you really don't want because those things are expensive. But on the other hand, a similar thing can happen if you go too fast. So, how do you decide how fast to go? Well, there's lots of forums with information, but since it's entirely dependent on the material, your machine, the endmill you're doing, it's traditionally an exercise of using some baselines, then trial and error. and it wasn't all smooth sailing. So, I ordered this 1/2 in acrylic, cut it down to size on the Maya. Everything's looking good until I grabbed my trusty calipers and it turns out it's 0.47 in thick. Oh, damn it. Meanwhile, I spent like the last 3 days designing the entire distribution plate from the ground up, thinking that it was actually 0.5 in thick. Maybe it sounds like it's not that big of a deal, except the pump is integrated into it and all of the depths are like very specifically set up for this. And what's even worse is that when I realized the mistake I made, I made another one by adjusting my designs and programming based on how thick it was with the protective paper still on. And that's how you end up with two halves of your Dro plate being completely different thicknesses. Oops. That's great for making sure your O-rings seal right. Speaking of O-rings, now previous to this project, my experience has always been that you just measure the existing O-ring you're trying to replace, or you can measure the surface you're trying to put an O-ring on and just kind of order a size, right? Except I needed like quantity one of 12 different sizes, which is why I opted instead to make my own. And that might sound crazy, but it's actually really easy. You just buy O-ring stock from a company like McMaster Car. I went with this definitely overkill 2mm Viton stock, but it was cheaper than the more basic EPDM rubber in this size. So, a win, I guess. Once you've got your stock, you just kind of measure it in whatever you're trying to build an O-ring for, cut it to size, and then glue it together with CA glue, otherwise known as super glue. But, I was having a really hard time getting a clean join, even with the tool I 3D printed to make it a little bit easier. It's probably going to leak at like half of these joints. But at this point, I just need to put the freaking dro plate together so I can actually build this computer. Except that wasn't happening yet either. It turns out I completely missed threading the M3 screw holes on one entire part of the dro plate. It's just that when I put it back into the CNC and tried to thread the holes, I didn't quite align the piece properly and all of the holes just ended up being completely crooked. I had to remachine the entire piece again. Fortunately, re-machining went okay, and I was able to get the dish plate fully assembled and into the rig, which was a really big moment for me. This piece, the first thing I had really designed and machined all on my own, it looked like it was going to fit. It finally was like, maybe everything is just going to I made another oopsie. The fittings don't fit. That's because when I originally designed this, my intention was to only partially cut the threads for the actual water cooling fittings and then use a tap to finish them off. That's because PC water cooling fittings are G1 quarter or BSP1 quarter, which is a British standard of pipe threading that uses a different angle on the actual threads themselves than basically everything in North America. So, my thread cutter that I use in the CNC mill wouldn't be able to cut the right angle of threads, which means this would probably be pretty loose if it was going into metal. But, it's not. It's acrylic, which is plastic. So, yeah, I'm just going to full send it and cut the threads to the full depth and hope that it works because I tried to put this tap in yesterday and just destroyed what little pre-cut threads there was. Maybe it's fine. Unfortunately, since I've taken this off the machine before to try to assemble it before I realized this, it's not in the exact same position it was when it was originally machined. Fortunately, we can use the 3D probe on the Mara Carva with the community firmware and I can basically just stick it in the hole to get the exact position of where it is by probing each of the sides to get the center and then we know exactly where the hole is and we can recut the threads even deeper. Problem solved. All right, one more hiccup and now we're smooth sailing. Okay, not because even though I tested the fittings after this, I used a different fitting than I was actually going to use. I mean, when I did that, I was thinking like, man, I I really should test with the actual fittings, but why would they be different, right? Well, because the ones I tested with are these cheap ones from Amazon. And of course, the tolerances are worse than the fancy precision machined Optimus fittings, which didn't fit. So, I put everything back into the machine again and remachineed the threads again, finally to have them freaking fit in the machine. It's in there mostly. All that's left at that point was tubing, which Oh, no. Yesterday, we broke our little holder piece that makes this bender work because I forgot to 3D print it solid. So, instead, last night, I machined one out of aluminum. And I just really, really hope that it's going to be strong enough. And if it doesn't work, I don't know what I'm going to do. I'm anxious. Oh god. Oh god. Okay, that's not ideal. Whoa, that really should run back a lot now. Okay. So, we need to go decent bit more. Hey, look at that. So, that's the edge of where it was getting held. I can't even feel that with my finger. To be clear, still not perfect, but serviceable. And then here is the first one I did. You see how much flatter it is on the end. The 4 hours last night making this aluminum part. Worth it. Arlo, what you got there, buddy? What'd you bring us? >> A, >> thank you. >> And there it is. All of the pipes are bent, cut to length, situated. It all fits. All that's left to do is to slide our fitting collars on, replace the ones that aren't painted, and we should be able to put some water in this thing. At first, I thought these fittings were going to be a huge pain in the butt to work with because of the way that this works. But actually, now that I see I think what is the intended way to assemble it, it's actually really easy. Let me just see how far it's supposed to be in. Oh god, that's how far in it's supposed to be. Oh god, I lied. This is going to be a massive pain in the butt. At least it really is held in there. Well, don't worry, I only have to do this like 16 times. One done. And I only wasted twice as many O-rings as I should have. This has been an absolute I don't even really know how to describe it. Probably the worst build of my entire life. The most difficult, most annoying computer I have ever had to build. And I don't even know if it leaks yet. You know what? >> Um, you know what? >> You know what? >> You know what? >> You know what? >> You know what? >> You know what? >> You know what? >> You know what? >> You know what, though? >> You know what? I don't want to manifest. This is not going to leak. It looks sick. I am floored with how the titanium looks. Oh my god. I forgot to put the ram in. It's not leaking yet. Oh god. Uh uh um uh uh. Mistakes were made. Mistakes were made. Um >> imagine this pump was DOA. >> I don't want to manifest. Oh, Arlo's interested now. Are you seeing this, Arlo? So, I'm just going to power the pump without powering up the system so that if it does leak, we don't damage any of the components because they are very expensive, especially right now. Please don't leak. Please don't leak. Please don't leak. Please work. Also, the pump, other than the pump sounding like death, it's pumping. That's awesome. Woo! >> Did you even fill that thing with milk? >> No. >> All right, the RAM is in. I just need to plug in the 24 pin power and then we can turn it on. Can you imagine after all this that like motherboard was dead? The motherboard is not going to be dead. I'm doing it to myself like almost wholeheartedly. It would help if I turn the power on. See, the pump still kind of sounds like it's grinding a little bit. Sometimes it can take like 10, 15 minutes to memory train, especially if you're on an old BIOS. The fact that it's been changing around is a good sign at least. Takes a while sometimes. Hey. Woo. Let's check our temps. That's actually really solid for an idle 9950X 3D. Usually they idle a little bit on the higher end. GPU is clearly working. Yeah, freaking works. I mean, there you go. 500 FPS. We'll see the temps in a second here, but as far as I can tell, we are cooking. We're cooking in that the computer is working great. Quiet. Looks sick. What more can I want? Now, obviously with a water cooled system like this, uh, with a bunch of water and a big some big radiators and whatnot, it takes a while for it to heat soak for sure. All right, the game is done. Our CPU temps are still under 75° and our GPU temp was under 50°. This block, from what I have been told and what I can see, it can pull away a lot of heat. The exhaust coming off this computer is hot, but it's dead quiet. The temps are great. So, I guess that answers it for us. titanium tubing. Questionable. Would I do it again? Most definitely not. So, thanks for watching, guys. If you like this video, hit the like button, get subscribed, and let me know down in the comments what you thought about this style of video. It's kind of new for us. I haven't done voice over like that before. Haven't done a PC build like this before. I'm definitely not doing a PC build like this ever again, but a different kind of PC maybe. Yeah. Bye.

Get 15% off any Antigravity A1 bundle until Feb 9 at https://jakkuh.com/antigravity a free landing pad with your purchase! Support the channel by watching this video on Patreon! https://jakkuh.com/patreon It’s finally time to build myself a proper PC, but what better way to do that then to make it the most difficult build possible, since I had a crazy idea to try watercooling my PC with TITANIUM tubing - some of the hardest tubing to bend. To top things off, I designed and machined a custom distro plate for the tubing, which was an absolute nightmare for a CNC newbie. Enjoy my suffering. ► Products Featured in this Video! ◄ Buy Titanium Tubing on Ebay: https://jakkuh.com/titanium-tubing Buy AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D: https://jakkuh.com/9950x3d Buy ASRock X870E Taichi Lite: https://jakkuh.com/x870e-taichi-lite Buy Sabrent Rocket 5 NVMe SSDs: https://jakkuh.com/rocket-5 Buy G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo DDR5 RAM: https://jakkuh.com/96gb-trident-z5-neo Buy NVIDIA RTX 5090: https://jakkuh.com/rtx-5090 Buy Optimus RTX 5090 PNY Single Slot GPU Waterblock: https://jakkuh.com/optimus-5090 Buy Optimus Signature V3 CPU Waterblock for AMD: https://jakkuh.com/optimus-v3 Buy Optimus Hardline Fittings: https://jakkuh.com/optimus-hardline Buy HAVN HS 420 Case: https://jakkuh.com/hs-420 Buy Noctua NF-A12x25 chromax.black https://jakkuh.com/nf-a12x25-black Buy Einstar 3D Scanner: https://jakkuh.com/einstar Buy Vevor Tubing Bender: https://jakkuh.com/vevor-bender Buy Acrylic: https://jakkuh.com/acrylic Buy 2mm Viton O-Ring Stock: https://jakkuh.com/cNbYX Buy M3 Countersunk Screws: https://jakkuh.com/m3-countersunk-screws Buy CNC End Mills: https://jakkuh.com/0LvrX Buy Makera Carvera CNC: https://jakkuh.com/carvera (jakkuh100off for $100 off) Buy a USB-C Charger: https://jakkuh.com/8S2Yu Buy a MacBook Pro: https://jakkuh.com/2FjTr Check out Fusion360 CAD & CAM software: http://jakkuh.com/fusion360 Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to the creator. ► GET EXCLUSIVE CONTENT ON MY PATREON: https://jakkuh.com/patreon ► COMPANIES THAT SUPPORT US: https://jakkuh.com/partners ► MY GAMING PC: https://jakkuh.com/gaming-setup ► MY HOMELAB GEAR: https://jakkuh.com/homelab ► MY CAMERA GEAR: https://jakkuh.com/camera-setup My Socials: - Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/jakkuh_t - Twitter/X: https://x.com/jakkuh_t Music provided by https://epidemicsound.com Videos Referenced: - JONSBO N1 NAS Build https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boKmZKTKXHc - We FINISHED the $100,000 PC! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bWA3BNx3A0 - Copper Tubing is HARD: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LtPurAiR1I - The Getaway RAV4 Build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElZcG4vTCPs - MANDREL BENDING 101: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmLVDhHhm1Q Chapters -------------------------------------------------